How to Access the AAO RAM Socket

Discussion in 'Acer Aspire One' started by hmraao, Sep 3, 2008.

  1. hmraao

    hmraao

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    Or: The Complete Illustrated Guide to AOA 110-Ab SODIMM Module Installation
    Or: How I Learned To Stop Worrying About the Warranty and Love the Extra Memory


    This is not the only guide of its kind. But unlike some, it does not end half way through the process with words to the effect of, "now, just reverse what you've done so far, to complete the upgrade."

    Undoubtedly, the most serious "bear-trap" that confronts the would-be memory up-grader is the effect that the do-it-yourself approach may have on their AAO's warranty. There may not be any "warranty void if seal broken" stickers in evidence, but there is no way that the AAO could be said to have been designed with owner memory upgrades in mind. A fact obscured by the brevity of some how-to guides on the subject. Acer may have included a SODIMM socket in their design of the One, but the fact that you have to, more or less, completely disassemble the machine in order to access it, suggests that it was never intended for anything other than factory use.

    There is some merit to the suggestion (made elsewhere) that the warranty conscious AAO owner may prefer to take it and their memory module purchase to their original AAO supplier for fitting. However, you would need to be confident of their service department's ability to perform what is, after all, a tricky operation. Don't assume that you're covered if they break something that you've entrusted to their care. (I have personal experience of the damage that so-called service engineers can do to a motherboard that they are unfamiliar with. Luckily for me, the manufacturer came to my rescue on that occasion.) At the very least, you would hope that anyone performing this procedure on your behalf knew at a minimum as much as is contained below.

    With this in mind, if you can handle delicate components with confidence, you may prefer the DIY approach. Anyone with a background in watch making, dentistry, eye surgery, bomb disposal, or, of course, electronics assembly, armed with a few small screwdrivers and the following instructions should have no trouble in achieving success. And that is the reason for producing yet another guide.

    What follows is a step-by-step account of the complete process of installing a memory module. Save for the one above, there's no further mention of bear-traps. Rather consider the whole process to be one big bear-trap, around which you need to keep your wits.

    Finally, it should go without saying, that these instructions are offered "as is" without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied. The entire risk of undertaking them lies with you.

    What's needed:

    • A suitable memory module[1][/*:3it0wi3y]
    • A pair (sizes #0 and #1) of cross-head jeweller's screwdrivers[2] (one response has suggested using sizes #00 and #0)[/*:3it0wi3y]
    • A flat head screwdriver at least 3mm wide, worn, if possible, to avoid scratches[/*:3it0wi3y]
    • A pair of tweezers for handling small screws is optional but highly recommended[/*:3it0wi3y]
    • Plenty of space on your working surface, and[/*:3it0wi3y]
    • A couple of hours peace and quiet.[/*:3it0wi3y]

    In addition, at least one sheet of A4 paper would be handy, as would printouts of some of the following figures.

    Electro static safety

    Electronics blowhards would have you believe that every time you pick up a device with a printed circuit board in it, you run the risk of frying its integrated circuits. By all means use any anti-static equipment that you already own. But don't feel you have to go out and buy some, if you don't. There are a number of tips you can follow for free to minimise the risk of causing damage through static.

    Avoid working in a room with carpet, or, for that matter, in a lightning storm. Seriously, though, you can pick up static charge by walking on carpet, especially if you're wearing rubber soled footwear. So work in a room without carpet, like a kitchen or garage. Any room fitted with a radiator, cooker, boiler or pipe work, would also be suitable as any static that you may have picked up could be discharged through touching an exposed metal surface.

    You can also pick up static charge from your clothing. So if you've just pulled your favourite sweater off over your head, be sure to earth yourself, as described above.

    Also, handle electronic circuit boards as little as possible. Leave them in any anti-static packaging that they came in for as long as possible, and only ever hold them by their edges. In particular, avoid touching any exposed metal pads or terminals.

    Finally, if you have a lamp with a unpainted metal base, and a three pin plug, the metal base will be connected to the earth pin of the plug. Put it on your work surface and plug it in. It doesn't need to be switched on. As long as it's plugged in, you can earth your hands before you touch anything sensitive to static, by first touching the lamp base. This last tip is particularly useful if you have no choice but to work in a carpeted room.

    And so to war

    The first and most important step in the whole process is to read through these instructions thoroughly. Do not attempt them unless you understand them completely.

    A few words about how the AAO is constructed will help explain the terms that are used below. The AAO consists of two major parts that are hinged together: a cover (housing the screen and webcam) and a case. The case itself is made of two pieces that are screwed together: a lid (housing the keyboard and touchpad) and a base (housing the battery compartment and internal components). The internal components include a solid state disk (SSD), a wireless network adapter (wifi card), a mainboard (housing the bulk of the processor chips and a variety of i/o ports that poke through portholes in the left side of the base), and a secondary board (housing more i/o ports poking through portholes in the right side of the base.)

    Cracking open the clam
    Or: Opening up the case to expose the internal components


    The SODIMM socket can only be accessed by exposing the under side of the AAO mainboard. And that involves removing the lid of the AAO's case.

    So, with the AAO shut down, disconnect its power lead and flip it over onto its closed cover. Working on a large piece of paper or card will help protect the cover's finish.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.1 Remove battery and rear rubber feet

    There are three obvious cross-head screws that will need to be removed from the under side of the case. But removing the battery and the two rubber feet nearest to it will reveal a further five that must also be unscrewed.

    The feet are held down by double-sided adhesive tape. A bluntish (3mm, or similar) flat head screwdriver, is useful for prising them out of their shallow housings. If you're lucky, the adhesive tape will peal away with them. If it remains attached, use the screwdriver to gently peal it off and immediately apply it to the foot it came off. Keep the feet sticky face up, clean and dust free. The feet must be re attached later, so preserve as much of their stickiness as possible.

    In order to keep track of which holes the screws you are about to remove belong to, you may like to arrange them in their correct positions on a (full size) printout of the following figure.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.2 Remove all 8 exposed screws

    Use a #1 cross-head screwdriver to remove all the exposed screws. Notice that the three removed from the holes in the battery compartment are shorter than the rest.

    In the figure, the accessory compartment has been uncovered. This proved to be an unnecessary step. It can be left unopened.

    With the under side screws removed and stored safely, flip the AAO over and open the cover to reveal the keyboard. The case lid is still secured to the case base by several screws underneath the keyboard, which is, therefore, the next thing to remove.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.3 Release keyboard retaining clips

    The keyboard assembly is held down by five sprung clips: three along the back edge and one along either side.

    A flat-head screwdriver is a pretty blunt instrument with which to free the keyboard. Without a more suitable tool, the risk of causing damage is high. Covering the end with a piece of tape adds some protection. But use as little force as you can get away with.

    Start with the middle of the three rear retaining clips. Hold the screwdriver perpendicular to the back edge and as flat against the keyboard surface as possible. Apply horizontal pressure with its very tip in order to force the clip back into the body of the case lid. You'll probably end up pressing the F8 key down in the process, so be careful not the damage it. Start with a very gentle push, and gradually increase the pressure. You'll see the clip disappear into the lid, but it may take several attempts before it goes in far enough to allow the keyboard assembly to pop up.

    Once the middle has popped up, use the same technique to free the other two clips along the back edge, and then the two smaller clips on either side of the keyboard. Thus freed, the keyboard assembly can be tipped up to reveal the flat thick-film cable that attaches it to the mainboard.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.4 Release keyboard ZIF connector latch

    Release the keyboard cable by flipping up the ZIF connector latch running along its length. Put the keyboard assembly to one side.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.5 Release touchpad ZIF connector latch

    The touchpad assembly that is part of the case lid, is attached to the mainboard by a much narrower flat cable. Release the cable by flipping up the latch of its much shorter ZIF connector, that, like the keyboard's ZIF connector, pokes through the case lid.

    Again, in order to keep track of which holes the screws you are about to remove belong to, you may like to arrange them in their correct positions on a (full size) printout of the following figure.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.6 Remove remaining 6 lid screws

    Use a #1 cross-head screwdriver to remove all but one of the screws still securing the lid. The silver screw on the extreme right of the figure needs a smaller #0 cross-head screwdriver, and is the only such screw you'll come across.

    With these six screws removed, all that is holding the lid and base together is some thin flanging around the front and side edges. Starting at the rear and working forwards, all that is required is some gentle flexing of the case to free its lid.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.7 Rear case lid spurs hinder its removal

    Unfortunately, figure 7 is misleading. It gives the impression that the case lid can be removed by tipping it up at the rear. In fact, the case lid has to be tipped up from the front. The figure shows, not very clearly I'm afraid, one of a pair of spurs at the back of the lid. They hook round the hinge mechanism in the base and prevent the lid from being tipped up from the rear. There is a better view of the spurs, and the problem they pose, in figure 22 below.

    Tip the case lid up at the front and manoeuvre the spurs out from under the hinges at the rear, to reveal the contents of the case base in all its glory.

    Flipping the pancake
    Or: Inverting the mainboard to access the SODIMM socket


    Figure 8 below is the final one worth printing out (full size) in order to keep track of the screws you will be removing. Note that one of the screw locations is actually obscured in the figure, though it is still highlighted.

    Hint: This is, in fact, the figure that I wish I had been in a position to print out. If you print out none of the others, at least print this one, because, as you can see, there are a lot of empty screw holes that can lead to confusion.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.8 Final screw removal locations (one obscured) required to free mainboard

    The mainboard with the SODIMM socket on its reverse, is the large printed circuit board on the left. There is only one more screw securing it. Unfortunately, even without that screw, it would still be practically impossible to flip without first removing most of the other components contained within the case base. So, brace yourself sweet cakes...it's going to be a bumpy ride.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.9 Unplug internal speakers cable. Remove MB and wifi card screws

    Ease the white, red and black speakers cable's plug from its connector near the centre of the mainboard. The plug is small and very firmly inserted. So, if you need to use tweezers or a screwdriver to help it out, take great care not to damage surrounding components.

    Remove the screw near the edge of the mainboard, where the speakers cable disappears under it.

    Remove the screw holding down the wifi card just to the right of that.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.10 Remove secondary board screws

    Remove the three screws securing the secondary "interface" board.

    Lifting the left of the board a few millimeters with a slight anti-clockwise twist, will ease it away from the portholes on the right side of base. Take care not to damage the switch that mates with the wifi activation slider at the front of the case base.

    It isn't necessary to disconnect the thick black cable that runs between the two boards near the front of the case. Just move the secondary board enough to access the SSD that it partially covered. It also helps to move the wifi card to one side.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.11 Remove both SSD screws

    Remove both screws that secure the SSD, one of which was hidden by the secondary board.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.12 Release the SSD ZIF latch

    Flip up the latch of the ZIF connector to release the SSD board's flat cable. Lift out the SSD and put it to one side.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.13 Limb of mainboard wedged at rear of case base

    The only remaining obstacle to flipping the mainboard is a short limb of PCB, highlighted in the figure above, that is wedged under a recess at the rear of the case base. A very slight lift and counter-clockwise twist to the mainboard will ease it out of the portholes on the left. You don't want to move the mainboard far, just ease it enough towards the front of the case base, so that the PCB limb in the top left corner is freed.


    [​IMG]
    Fig.14 Flip main and secondary boards onto display revealing SODIMM socket

    With the mainboard now free to move, and the wifi card out of the way to the right, align the secondary board with the mainboard on top of the case base, so that you can flip them both together to lie on the display, thus revealing the empty SODIMM socket.

    Tip: DO NOT DO WHAT I DID, as seen in figure 14. Rather, protect the display surface with a spare sheet of paper before flipping over the boards.

    Filling the hole
    Or: Inserting the RAM module


    Carefully remove your SODIMM memory module from its packaging.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.15 SODIMM memory module locating notch

    Figure 15 shows the memory module's locating notch which must be lined up with the corresponding locating pin on the memory socket when it is inserted. Notice, that as shown, the module needs to be flipped over left to right in order to line up with the socket in the figure below.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.16 Line up the SODIMM socket locating pin with the memory module notch

    If you jiggle the memory module gently as you slip it into the SODIMM socket at a slight angle, it shouldn't require a great deal of force to push it completely into the socket, so that the locating pin almost completely fills the notch.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.17 Properly seat SODIMM module then press flat into socket

    Once the module is properly seated, only gentle pressure is needed to push it flat into the socket, so that socket's retaining arms clip onto either side of the module.

    "There and back again"
    Or: Now, just reverse what you've done so far, to complete the upgrade


    With the memory module in place, the game-plan shifts from one of attack to retreat. It may seem as if the journey home is going to be awfully familiar, but there are still plenty of points of interest to view. At least as much care is needed to put everything back together again, as it took to take apart.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.18 Several pins confirm the mainboard's correct location

    Flip both boards back over into the main body of the case base, checking that the speakers cable that emerges through the notch along the front edge of the mainboard, is lying properly in its channel beneath. Once you're happy that the cable will not be pinched when the board is screwed down, ease the mainboard limb back into its recess at the back, so that the ports on the left of the mainboard line up with their corresponding portholes in the case base. There are several pins that help line up the mainboard correctly, three of which are highlighted in the figure above.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.19 Refit the SSD

    Move the secondary board to one side, to allow the SSD board to be refitted. Secure its two retaining screws. Make sure that the flat SSD cable lies evenly in the ZIF socket and close down the latch to secure it.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.20 Refit secondary board

    There are also pins to help position the secondary board. But, as well as ensuring that the board's ports line up with their portholes on the right of the case base, the wifi switch at the front of the board must re-engage properly with its slider, which is part of the front of the case base. Before securing the board's three screws, check that the wifi antenna cable isn't trapped under the board. Check at the rear of the case where the antenna cable's black and white wires butt up against the end of the secondary board.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.21 Refit wifi card, secure mainboard and plug in speakers cable

    Refit the wireless network adapter, together with its retaining screw. Refit the mainboard's single screw and plug the speakers cable back into its socket.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.22 Check display cable bundle position

    The figure above offers a much better view of the two spurs that project from under the rear of the case lid. These need to be hooked under the hinge assemblies before lining up the front of the case lid and base. But before attempting to refit the lid, make sure that the display cable bundle, highlighted in the top left corner of the figure, has not splayed out beyond the bounds of the case. If it has, use gentle pressure to push it back inside the case, so that it won't be pinched when you refit the lid.

    Once you are happy with the position of the display cable bundle, offer up the lid to the base, sloping it downward towards the back of the case, so that the spurs hook under the hinges. Once in, line up the front edges of the case base and lid. Then, starting at the front and working your way round the sides towards the rear, gently squeeze the two halves of the case together until they click into place. The rear edges themselves won't click together. They are secured with screws later.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.23 Position and secure the touchpad cable and refit the under keyboard screws

    The flat touchpad connecting cable will probably have lined up with its ZIF socket. If not, you can adjust its position using the blue pull-tab, before closing the ZIF latch.

    Refit the screws (five black and one silver) that you removed earlier.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.24 Position and secure the keyboard cable

    Holding the keyboard at right angles to the case, as above, carefully position the keyboard's thick film cable in its ZIF socket before securing it by closing the latch.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.25 Refit the keyboard

    As you lower the keyboard into position, ensure that the four tongues along its front edge, highlighted above, slip into their corresponding recesses. Gently press down the edge of the keyboard at each of the five sprung clip points, until they engage.

    The end is nigh
    Or: Only two more figures, then a big finish


    [​IMG]
    Fig.26 Refit the under side screws

    Close the AAO cover and invert the case. Refit all eight screws removed earlier, remembering that the three in the battery compartment holes are shorter than the rest.

    [​IMG]
    Fig.27 Refit rubber feet and battery

    Press the rubber feet firmly into their housings and refit the battery. If you also removed the accessory compartment cover, replace it. Otherwise, you're good to go.

    Power up, and press F2 to check that the BIOS detects the extra memory.

    So, finally, that most classic of all makeover show moments: the before and after reveal.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    This concludes another feature presentation bought to you by HMRAAO, inspired by the genius of Family Guy.

    Giggity Goo.

    ...........................................................................
    Footnotes:

    [1] I've led too many forum horses to water that they wouldn't drink to get into any arguments about what constitutes a suitable memory module. All I did was use a well known site's Memory Advisor(TM) tool. If you want to get any more fancy than that, then good luck to you.

    [2] Jeweller's screwdrivers worked for me. But I'm a "good carpenter." YEMD.


    One final parting tip. Screws should never need to be forced, but will fit best in their original holes. So try not to mix them up;)

    Th-th-th-that's all folks!

    Copyright © 2008 HmrQtr
    All guide contents is available under the terms of the GNU Free Documentation License.
     
    hmraao, Sep 3, 2008
    #1
  2. hmraao

    Skittler

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    Fantastic post! Thanks.

    One question though...

    Do you have any speed/performance data to show what difference an increase from 0.5GB to 1.5GB RAM produces on a Linpus model?
    In other words, is it worth it?
     
    Skittler, Sep 6, 2008
    #2
  3. hmraao

    sideways

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    A huge benefit is enabling virtualisation with decent performance using free products such as VirtualBox and VMware, since you can allocate plenty of ram to the virtual machine.

    Other areas where you'll see gains is when using memory intensive apps like mathematica, firefox or java-based apps like azureus, especially if you like to run several at the same time.

    With 1.5gb you essentially eliminate the need for a swap partition, I have 1gb and still never see swap used.
     
    sideways, Sep 6, 2008
    #3
  4. hmraao

    Skittler

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    I suppose that means it also has the benefit that you don't use up any SSD space for swap space, if you modify the appropriate setting?
     
    Skittler, Sep 6, 2008
    #4
  5. hmraao

    dirk

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    Outstanding post, thank you.

    I have already done this, following tnkgrl's video on the subject, that was enough for me, but having this excellent step by step is a great resource.
     
    dirk, Sep 6, 2008
    #5
  6. hmraao

    hmraao

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    Quantatative data, no. That is I haven't run any performance benchmarks.
    My incentive for upgrading the memory was a trade review that suggested BBCiPlayer performance might be improved by maxing out the RAM. As I'd noticed dropped video frames I thought it might be worthwhile, given the low price. I have not noticed any dropped frames since. So there has been a qualitative improvement.
    Obviously, there is some risk inherent to the process so I wouldn't recommend performing it, unless you intend to use applications that benefit from extra memory. I've never really bought the line "because it was there" trotted out by various explorers and mountaineers of repute. If they'd said "to massage my ego" or "impress strangers" I'd be more inclined to believe them.
    Thanks for the feedback, and to those who contributed justifications:)
     
    hmraao, Sep 7, 2008
    #6
  7. hmraao

    Thom Holwerda

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    Thanks a million for the clear guide. It worked like a charm...

    ...after drilling out a grand total of three (3!) screws - on of which was the one left of the WiFi card. Can you imagine my heart rate while holding an electric drill above the poor motherboard?

    Anyway, I now have 1GB of RAM. I used a PC2-4200 module.
     
    Thom Holwerda, Sep 7, 2008
    #7
  8. hmraao

    IntoTheWild

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    Great post! Worked great! Thank you.

    A word of caution to anyone thinking of trying the RAM upgrade. One of the three screws covered by the battery on my AA1 was on so tightly that I could not get it off and actually stripped the screw head. (Could I have been at fault, possibly, but it was WELDED on) Point being, be careful when starting to unscrew. Luckily I was able to trim away the plastic around the screw to still be able to remove the top panel.
     
    IntoTheWild, Sep 8, 2008
    #8
  9. hmraao

    roberton

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    Thanks for a very clear and helpful guide. I used this to upgrade my memory and it worked without a hitch.

    The print-outs for screw positions were very helpful. I used blu-tack to fix screws to the print-outs and this made putting them back simple.

    Instead of a screw-driver I used a credit card and a small piece of a CD to pop-out the key-board.
     
    roberton, Sep 8, 2008
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  10. hmraao

    pommy

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    Nice guide - a little quicker than you'd think though.

    20 mins and back together.

    Definately worth pointing out that there is ONE screw smaller than all of the rest!

    (it's the small silver one to the right when the keyboard is off)

    I had to take 2 AAO's back already and so I had to remove the RAM so they would not know I'd messed the warranty.

    Also, the RAM I used (Kingston) had to be removed as every RAR file over say 50MB downloaded was corrupt due to the RAM being incompatible, although it did work in every other way.

    ;)
     
    pommy, Sep 8, 2008
    #10
  11. hmraao

    goapy

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    Would someone verify that the factory ram configuration is the same across all of the aspire one models, both linux and windows?

    My questions, more precisely are:

    Is it always the case, regardless of model, that only a 512MB memory module will be soldered to the motherboard?

    Does a windows model that comes factory configured with 1GB of memory have a 512MB module soldered, and another 512MB module already present in the socket?

    Is it always the case that models with 1GB factory memory never have a 1GB module soldered to the motherboard? And, if so, such models will always have a memory module present in the socket prior to any uprgrades?

    And, it is always the case, regardless of model, that a 1GB module is what must be installed in order to obtain 1.5GB total memory?
     
    goapy, Sep 9, 2008
    #11
  12. hmraao

    pommy

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    I've had 3 and they have all been that way :)

    AOA150 Model ZG5 120GB XP's all of them.
     
    pommy, Sep 9, 2008
    #12
  13. hmraao

    NeoVector

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    Fantastic Guide hmraao, credit to you for spending the time photographing and writing this guide up.

    Now booting with 1536mb!

    Personally, I found a #0 driver best for all the screws, par the silver one for which i used a #00 (Instead of #1).

    Thank you :D
     
    NeoVector, Sep 9, 2008
    #13
  14. hmraao

    pommy

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    NeoVector - have you tried downloading a 100MB RAR file yet?

    Mine appeared to be working also you see...
     
    pommy, Sep 10, 2008
    #14
  15. hmraao

    Yako

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    This is definitely a great guide!

    One thing to note however, this guide is for SSD users. Which means for HDD user there is one step that is different.
    Removing the SSD. In this case. Fig.11 Remove both SSD screws
    As mentions by the author, you have to remove the 2 screws securing it and the data strap.

    For the HDD version, I didn't find a way remove the HDD first without removing the motherboard. What I did was flipped the motherboard along with the HDD together. The HDD is securely attached to a cage like mechanism that is securely attached to motherboard, so try not flex it too much when lifting the mother.

    Hope this helps for the HDD users :D

    This message is just my observation during the changing the ram process and is posted as is without warranties what so ever.
     
    Yako, Sep 14, 2008
    #15
  16. hmraao

    caspire

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    Having added RAM before viewing this guide, I'll add that it is the best that I have seen.

    I'll reinforce three points.

    When pressing the clips on the keyboard, get the tool as close to horizontal as possible. When I did mine I let in press the neighboring keys. The clips release easily if you do this.

    Carefully note where the screws come from. I put all mine in one container and had to work out where they all went as there are a number of different lengths.

    The latches for the ZIF cables shoild be flipped away from the cable. They rotate about the inner end. Getting cables back was the most fiddly part for me. Be patient.

    It took me two attempts to get the RAM seated correctly. I've installed a number of modules in laptops and this is the first time I have had a problem. The viewing angle doesn't help.

    Do it when you have plenty of time. This is not a job to rush!
     
    caspire, Sep 17, 2008
    #16
  17. hmraao

    pommy

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    You're kidding right? - 20 mins to take apart and put together - tops.

    Ok, I do have a problem though...I've done three of these, all with Kingston RAM and ALL three have stuffed up.

    It's an easy process sure, and it shows the RAM is registered etc. but has anyone tried downloading a RAR file of say 100MB?

    Every single file I download is corrupt - take out the RAM and it's fine.

    All three machines were the same.

    Can anyone try this and see?
     
    pommy, Sep 18, 2008
    #17
  18. hmraao

    jtktam

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    which kingston ram did you use?

    i am using KVR667D2S5/1G and I have no issues

    -joe
     
    jtktam, Sep 19, 2008
    #18
  19. hmraao

    jtktam

    Joined:
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    I have read that a few guys have problems with the stubborn screw in the upper section of the "audio" circuit board. it is in there pretty tight and in some cases it's stripped from the factory and impossible to remove as is

    what I did was actually:

    1. remove all the screws except for the upper right hand one
    2. remove the network module
    3. pull the left hand plastic chassis out slightly so that the VGA connector cleared the opening
    4. tilted the motherboard up 1.5 inches or so
    5. then using my fingers, I reached under the motherboard replaced the memory

    this way you unplug as little as possible BUT

    be careful not to pull too much on the chassis or you end up getting it out of shape.. and don't drop the sodimm, otherwise have fun fishing it out from the gap

    -joe
     
    jtktam, Sep 19, 2008
    #19
  20. hmraao

    pommy

    Joined:
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    Same mate:

    [​IMG]

    Every RAR is corrupt using it in 3 different AOA's and in my HP and other Acer Notebooks it works fine (and easier to test lol!)
     
    pommy, Sep 20, 2008
    #20
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