Help pls, solderless touchscreen to CN11 ??? What to do ???

Hey everyone, long story short - I bought one of the 'solderless touchscreen kits' from eBay and spent a lovely Saturday afternoon installing it.

I got it in nicely, no cracks, perfect alignment, wires routed (I thought) good, etc etc. When I gave the AAO power though, I caught a faint smell of burnt plastic... . Quick dismantle again, close inspection, I couldn't find anything. So, I thought it must be the new wires heating up or something, plugged it back in, very faint smell again. Again, dismantle and double check for shorts, nothing. I should mention that both times the touchscreen kit did not work. :cry: . Now, I figured I either shorted a wire along the way, or pinched one, or something, so, one more dismantle, got the AAO back to stock, except the TS still in place over the screen. Now the webcam doesn't work. :x . Ok, obviously I bruised a wire, or shorted something with the webcam wires and the hub never got power. So, no touchscreen.

My question, I'm going to give up on powering this through the webcam port, and just give it power using the extra USB hub CN11. Could anyone explain (pics preferably) on where to solder and what wires go where? I was going to use one of the harness supplied with the hub for the TS. So, it's [Red, White, Green, Black]. I'm assuming Red is hot 5v, and Black is Ground so are the White and Green in order as they fall on the CN11 layout? so I would solder [R - W - G - B] straight across?

Also, I read on another post on here that the hub can take 5v but the TS can only take 3.3v. Is that true? If so, would I have to solder the Red(Hot) to something else to supply the 3.3v or is it even true? Or would I solder the Red that attaches to the TS? Snip and solder behind the hub? Sorry for all the questions, but am a little new to soldering (I've done it before, so not worried, but this Touchscreen it too touchy - sheesh)

Any comments are greatly appreciated everyone! Thanks a ton!

 

This should help.

If you want a 3.3 volt source, then the 3G connector pad maybe the location to use. You need to add a jumper to power (3.3v) the 3G pad.

I would try CN11 first.

 

jerryt you are awesome! :mrgreen: I have been re-reading your other posts regarding this, and if it will work, I think I will try the 5v power. I would rather have the ability to have some other devices (BT, GPS, etc) off that hub. I was only concerned about 5v being too much juice for the TS, but, if you say it's ok, I'll take that and run! Thanks for the detailed pics too, I think I can muddle through it.

THANKS! .

I'll post back once I get around to soldering this together. I'll also need some good quality solder, do you guys suggest any specific metal / gauge? The stuff I have now is wayy to thick. Also, I can see from the pic that the wires would be in order, right? Red - White - Green - Black (sorry for being anal retentive, I don't want to kill my poor AAO )

 

I have not tried this solderless kit on 5 volts, so I am NOT reporting that it works. Be aware you can wire the hub to 3.3 volts but wire individual devices attached to the hub off 5 volts. Just use D+ and D- from the hub on 5 Volt devices and the hub will still work.

 

Ok , thanks again. That's good to know. I have read some other posts on here that report the TS will not work if you have 5v going to the hub. I'm guessing the prudent thing to do would be wire it for power with 3.3v. Thanks to your diagram I can just trace from (under the Wireless card?) #24 - 3.3v AUX. You posted I would have to add a jumper to get power. Could you direct me to instructions? Sorry for being such a n00b... . I may end up trying it with 5v anyways (seems easier to wire up) then post back if it's a success or not.

Thanks again for all the help jerryt

 

3G slot not Wifi slot.

Use pins #2 or #52 for 3.3 volts. (Not sure about 3.3 aux.)

This picture shows the 3G slot and the location of the jumper to power the slot;
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tnkgrl/298 ... 718788110/

 

Sweet, that clears things up real good . what would I do without you jerryt? That's nice and close to where the hub goes anyways.

I have PM'd another member on here, he was saying that he did get his TS working by tracing from the CN11 header, but it's good to know that these points are available if I need them. Thanks again for all the help. So, to close that jumper just a dab of solder eh? I suppose I could even have all 4 wires coming off that 3G slot, if I'm reading it correctly anyways. :?

So much for 'Easy' and 'Fun' and 'Solderless' :lol: :lol: :lol: .

 

You would jump the two pads with a piece of wire.